RELÆ: bring it on

I have to admit that I am a friend of classical tastes and strong flavours. Still, I have to accept the fact that my evening at Restaurant Relæ a couple of weeks ago was nothing but wonderful. It was as challenging and frustrating as I had expected on beforehand, but what to expect from a Sicilian-born chef with at background from Noma (sous-chef) and El Bulli (season of 2006) that decided to open his restaurant(s) on Jægersborggade, the coolest street in the super-hyped culinary city of Copenhagen?

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Chef Christian Puglisi

I doubt one can find many restaurants in this part of the world, if none, being as simple yet creative and innovative as Christian Puglisi´s Relæ. The restaurant is as informal and relaxed as the people working here and most of the dishes (and wines) I had this evening were surprisingly good. The plates never consist of more than 3-4 components using very non-luxurious ingredients of high quality. The serving of turnip, chervil and horseradish was one of my favourites this evening, as well as the smoked beets with pickled elderflower.

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Celeriac taco

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Smoked beets and pickled elderflower

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Goat cheese ice cream and parsley

Some of Puglisi’s creations were more daring than delicious but I guess this is a fact that you will have to accept if you come here. For example, a serving of cucumber with fermented cucumber juice did nothing to satisfy my palate.

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Cucumber

My experience with natural wines has not been easy but I was happy to be in the hands of Kim Rossen (partner and co-founder) this evening, whose wine pairings were very clever yet challenging. Like the Commendatore ’11 from Octavin, Jura – absolutely undrinkable on its own, but beautifully paired with a dish of carrots, beef and söl.

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Cour-Cheverny ’10 – Oliver Lemasson, Touraine

Make sure you get a seat in the open kitchen counter, come here with an open mind, and hopefully you will experience an evening as wonderful as mine.

And by the way, make sure that you also visit Manfreds & Vin across the street from Relæ. I would love to have a place like this in Stockholm.

***

Restaurant Relæ

Adress: Jægersborggade 41, DK-2200 Copenhagen N

Phone: (+45) 3696 6609

Map

More photos from my evening at Restaurant Relæ can be found here!

Annonser

2 comments

  1. anonymous foodie

    Well, this post is as satisfying as the cucumber you ate. Don’t get me wrong now, however, 2 or 3 tablespoons of ”focusing on the actual food” and a pinch of ”detail” might just be it.

  2. Thanks for this amazing review on Relae. Stumbled upon your blog while trying to find infos on this place and really eanjoyed your article. I find interesting that their Chef’s background take sources at El Bulli (never tried at the peak of Adria’s fame, only tried it when he was still strong on more classical fares 2000, then 2001) + Noma (tried in 2009, then in 2011). My question to you: should I expect, if I dine there, an approach pretty much closer to Redzepi’s, or one that inspires itself from Redzepi’s but then evolves in something more personal. I am asking this question because I needed to know if, for someone like me who has already tried Noma, it would still worth it to give a try to Relae. Thanks for your answer and happy new year to you and yours!

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